Rabbit basics

Rabbit basics Q+A pt 2

Can rabbits live with a companion?

Rabbits are social animals that are able to live with other rabbits. However, rabbits are particular about their cage mates, and bonding rabbits is a process. Visit the bonding tab, for more information.

How big should  my rabbit's cage be?

Your rabbit should be able to stand up on it's hind legs without touching the top, and your rabbit should be able hop at least 4 times inside the cage.

Can rabbits get along with other animals?

Rabbits are able to live with other animals like dogs, cats, birds, guinea pigs, chinchilla's etc. But before allowing your dog to be around your rabbit, consider the following: Is your dog vicious? Would it harm the rabbit? Is your rabbit in the right mind set to be around a predator? Could you trust these animals to be together unsupervised? Rabbits can get along with other species in situations, but it would be better to keep your rabbit away from other pets.

Are rabbits low-maintenance? 

Rabbits are thought to be an easy pet, but they come with ALOT of responsibility. Cages need to be large, they need 2 hours out of their cage a day, their diet consists of unlimited hay and water, half a cup of pellets, and vegetables. Rabbits need to see the vet annually, and spaying/neutering is highly recommended. Rabbits require constant supervision, and very dependent on their owners. Rabbits need to groomed, nails clipped, and their litter box changed daily. Overall, rabbits are high maintenance, and require a responsible owner with time.

How to Litter-box Train your Rabbit
 Rabbits are perfectly capable of being litter box trained.  Rabbits are very clean animals, naturally they choose certain areas to relieve themselves. To start, put a litter box in those areas, to slowly train him/her to use the litter box. Another natural habit, is to eat and poop at the same time. To contain the feces and urine in the litter box, place hay inside the box. At first, your rabbit may avoid the litter box and use another space. This is normal, just move the litter box to that area. If they produce pellets around the cage, just place the poops in the litter box to allow your rabbit to know where to go. When purchasing a litter box, try avoiding corner litter boxes, and litter boxes with wire flooring. Wire flooring is harsh on their feet, and can cause sore hawks. Cat trays, are a good option, or a storage container. When buying the actual litter, avoid any wood shavings. Wood shavings can cause zinc poisoning, or digestive problems. I personally use Care fresh, a paper based litter that is edible and non harmful. Some factors that effect the quickness of litter training, is age, and if your rabbit is altered. Spaying/ neutering your rabbit makes litter training a shorter process. It reduces any spaying, or territorial behavior.  The older the rabbit, the easier it is to litter train, due to younger rabbits short attention span. If your rabbit leaves a few scattered pellets, it dosen't mean they aren't trained. This is a normal behavior, just remind your rabbit by placing the pellets in their litter box. This process can take a matter of days, to a matter of weeks.

How to hold your rabbit

Why adopting is better

One of the biggest problems for future rabbit owners is finding the perfect rabbit from a reliable source. Rabbit breeders are known for treating rabbits like merchandise, they usually live outside in wire cages all clumped together. I'm not saying this is every breeder, but the majority are interested in the profit only. A lot of parents buy  bunnies from pet stores. The problem with this is the uncertainty about their health, and living conditions. Pet stores are relative to breeders, they are selling these animals only for profit. Your best option is the animal shelter. Most rabbits at the shelter are abandoned by their owners, who didn't realize the responsibility these pets came with. Animal shelters are non profit organizations, who protect  these animals with great care. All the rabbits are neutered/spayed, allowing the rabbit to a long hormonal free life. Vets provide these animals with care, preventing any serious problems. Go to your local shelter, and browse the variety of rabbits in need of a new home. 

Rabbits in large three story cages at animal shelter

Breeding farm in Missouri

First time rabbit owners Q+A

Question 1: What breed is best for me?

Answer: Breed isn't the most important aspect when choosing a rabbit, it's more of personality. Finding a rabbit that suits you is more important than looks. Check your local shelters for any open bunny playtime, learn which rabbit is more of your type. If weather plays a large role in your area, consider maybe adjusting the situation. If you live somewhere with high temperatures, an Angora rabbit isn't going to be very happy. 

Question 2: Is spaying and neutering worth it?

Answer: Ovarian cancer is very common for unspayed female rabbits, spaying your rabbit greatly eliminates this risk. Another benefit of neutering/spaying your rabbit, is the increase of a calm lifespan. Males also tend to act less aggressive with other rabbits, and stop most territorial behaviors. Spaying your rabbit prevents any accidental litters, rabbits can breed every 31 days!

Question 3: Indoor or outdoor cage?

Answer: Indoors is preferable. Outdoors provide more risks and hazards. The greatest risk outdoors are predators, especially throughout the night. Raccoons have the ability to open hutches. Your rabbit could easily die of shock. If your rabbit has been living outside without harm, another risk could be loneliness. Being deprived from a loving family, or being stuck in a cramped cage, affects your rabbit's health. Depression can lead to serious problems.Symptoms include; insomnia, food deprivation, and lethargy. 
For more information on these topics, visit: http://rabbit.org/

Rabbits are a big commitment. They aren't toys. 
Wondering if it's the right pet, click on the link to see. Is it the right pet?