My first bunny bonding date
While searching for a companion for my rabbit, I encountered 3 different shelters. The first shelter was the humane society. They offered a program called bunny playground, where the bunnies got to run around with other rabbits in spacious room. Unfortunately, Bleu never found some-bunny to love there. We went to the next closest shelter a month after, and I thought I found the one. The offered no programs to introduce my rabbit to theirs,and they only had a two week return policy.   For 15 minutes, the rabbits were separated by an exercise pen. They were able to stick their noses through the bars, which some rabbits might use to their advantage to bite each other. If this happens in your situation, look for another bunny candidate. Fortunately, my rabbits were just friendly and curious. After a while, we took out the wire wall. Together, they were very cautious. The Holland lop named Maple Rose, initiated the introduction to Bleu. The rabbits never broke into a fight, which is a great sign. They were comfortable in each other's presence, she flopped while he would groom himself. To show his dominance, Bleu constantly humped Maple. This is a sign of dominance, he is showing who is in charge in their relationship. Another good sign, was her being patient and allowing him to mount her. If they showed signs of aggression, the shelter volunteer forced cuddling. He placed the rabbits together, and pet them both. At the end of the session, the rabbits laid side by side without force, and she mounted him instead. I decided to adopt Maple, seeing their potential bond. Over the next few weeks maybe months, I will have bonding sessions between the two. They currently live in the same room, which is dominated by Bleu. They are separated in different cages, being they are not bonded yet. Maple is still acclimating to the new environment, but is doing well. I will be posting videos and descriptions of each of my bonding sessions at home, and I am available to accept any questions!  |
Guide to bonding two rabbits
Trying to find your rabbit a companion? Bonding rabbits takes time and patience, but with these tips, it may shorten the process. Consider the following before buying a second rabbit:
Neutering/ spaying your rabbits makes this process smoother. It prevents sexual/territorial behaviors, due to the unaltered hormones.
- Some rabbits just can't get along, letting your rabbit choose it's buddy will speed up this process. Many animal shelters promote their rabbit dating programs. Sonoma humane society bunny playground
- "Ideally, the two should be close to the same size and age-not that the rabbits care, but because of other considerations:
being close to the same size makes them less likely to hurt each other during the squabbles that usually accompany introductions, and being close to the same age maximizes their chances to live out their lives together, avoiding the “leap-frog” situation where an older rabbit has become a widow/widower, and is able to find only a younger partner, who is likely to also end up as an older rabbit looking for a partner when the older one passes on" ( Laroche,Georgia HRS).
Bonding process
"Start with two crates, one for each rabbit. Put them next to each other, with two or three inches separating them at first, so they can’t bite each other’s noses through the sides of the crates. (This is an ideal setup if one of the rabbits has just been spayed or neutered. The two can be next to each other throughout the healing period.)
Each day, switch the rabbits so each is in the other’s crate. Don’t switch the furnishings of the crates, and don’t clean prior to switching the rabbits, so each rabbit is living in the other rabbit’s space. Of course, you will have to clean the crates from time to time, but try to do it after the rabbit has been in the other’s crate for at least several hours.
After a few days of this, move the crates as close to each other as you can, but move them apart immediately if the rabbits are nipping at each other. If they are trying to groom each other, or are lying next to each other, take the next step. (If the rabbits never stop nipping at each other, you might want to start over with a different rabbit, although it is possible that, if you continue with the next steps, you might still get a pairing.)
Introductions
Take the two rabbits to a neutral area that is fairly large–at least 8 ft by 4 ft, but larger if possible. (A neutral territory is one that neither rabbit has spent enough time in to feel a sense of ownership.) If the surface is linoleum or tile, rather than carpet, the rabbits will be unable to get traction, and will be less likely to hurt each other if they do start fighting. On the other hand, a flat carpet, with no pile, provides traction, and makes the rabbits feel more secure. I select the type of flooring I use based on how I perceive the rabbits; slick if I think there will be major scuffling; carpeted, if either rabbit isn’t totally confident. (Some people use a bathtub to introduce rabbits, but I prefer a larger space so the meeting can be more “natural.”)
Put several stools, tunnels, boxes, etc. in this area so the rabbits can get away from each other if they want. Include a litter box that has been used by both rabbits, a box of hay, and a heavy crock of water in an out-of-the-way spot, so the rabbits are less likely to land in it if they start scuffling or racing around frantically.
Wear heavy shoes or boots (sports shoes are usually sufficient, but avoid sandals), and have a broom handy. Put the two rabbits in the neutral territory simultaneously, and stay with them. Don’t have more than one person in the area at a time, because if the rabbits start to fight, two people may knock into each other and be unable to separate the rabbits. If the rabbits do start to fight, use the broom or your feet to separate them. Grab one with your hand only when you have them separated so you aren’t bitten by a rabbit who thinks you are part of the other rabbit!
Note: when rabbits fight, they draw the third eyelids over their eyes to protect them. They don’t see detail to begin with, and with their eyes covered by the third eyelid, they see even more poorly. They may attack your feet, not realizing that you aren’t the other rabbit. Obviously, if your hand is in the way, they may attack it, not meaning to hurt you, but mistaking you for their foe. So be careful about getting your hands where the rabbits may bite them. Once the rabbits have been separated, grab one quickly, lifting him or her off the floor into your arms.
Pairing Behaviors
Rabbits may spend as much as a couple of hours pretending they don’t see each other. Or they may immediately attack each other. Or they may touch noses, and suddenly be “in love.” The most common reaction is for them to spend some time avoiding each other. Don’t try to force them to be together.
In nature, the female wild European rabbit builds her burrow, and then goes to find a male to become her mate. So it is natural that most often, our female will be the first to approach the male, who may run away, or warn her to leave him alone. She will continue to approach him, and may even mount him (head or tail) until she “gets his attention” at which point he may start chasing her. At this point, she will suddenly become a little “coquette,” running away, letting him exhaust himself trying to catch her. Do not interfere with this!
Sometimes the male will continue to ignore the female, no matter how much she likes him. If this happens, she is likely to eventually lose patience. A woman scorned, she may finally attack him. Chances are poor that such a pair will bond well, although you may want to give the two a break and start over a few days later.
Sometimes the male may immediately rush the female and try to mount her, with out so much as a by your leave. Usually the female will turn on him and fight him off or race frantically away, trying to find a place she can go where he can’t mount her. Having small stools or tubes serving as “tunnels” is important for her to be able to get away from him. On the other hand, she may decide she likes him, and allow him to corner her and have his way with her.
If you have the time, you can allow the two to remain together for several hours, as long as you can remain with them. If you don’t, let them be together for at least 30 minutes (assuming there are no actual fights), and repeat the introduction again later.
Dominance Displays
Rabbits will often go through “dominance displays,” each expressing dominance over the other. Chances are that the female domestic rabbit will actually be the dominant of the pair (the society of the European wild rabbit is a matriarchy), but the male must let her know that he isn’t just a doormat. So each will “display” dominance to the other.
If the male is a doormat, the female will become disgusted, and attack him. Again, this pairing may not work, but you can try again a day or two later. Sometimes, after thinking over what happened, the rabbits will approach the situation with different attitudes.
After the honeymoon, when the pair settles down to everyday living, in the best pairings, one cannot see any evidence of which rabbit is the dominant. Each may groom and gently care for the other. But during the introductions there are two common displays of dominance.
The first is one where each rabbit leaps over the other, and strikes the other one’s back with his or her feet. Usually hair goes flying everywhere, but it is highly unlikely that either rabbit will even be scratched. Again, do not interfere. If they are exhibiting this behavior, it is because they must “have this discussion” before they are ready to accept each other.
Another display of dominance has to do with mounting or “humping.” Such behavior is motivated by three possible factors: sex, domination, and affection. During introductions, the initial primary factor is usually dominance, with sex and affection both playing a part. But in the “love at first sight” pairings, it is likely to be mostly sheer affection. Each rabbit will mount the other. They may mount the head or the rear.
Do not allow the male to mount the female’s head if you can’t see her nose poking out from under him. If she doesn’t like what he is doing, she may bite his penis. Such a bite could be deep enough to sever the urethra, making him unable to urinate. Obviously, this could be a life threatening injury, requiring surgery. If he tries to mount her head, push him gently so her nose is sticking out, or so he is mounting her shoulder.
Sometimes the two rabbits will each begin trying to mount each other, causing them to circle, head to tail. This must be broken up immediately. Each rabbit is getting frustrated, dizzy, and angry, and a vicious fight will break out if it isn’t stopped.
Final Steps
Eventually, the rabbits will begin spending less time scuffling and chasing each other. They may take naps a foot or two apart, or explore different parts of the room. Little by little, they will begin lying closer to each other, grooming each other, and fully accepting each other.
The “cage” (the rabbit’s personal home) tends to be a far more personal possession than the space around it. It is important to let the rabbits decide when they are ready to share their home. If you put them in it together, you may cause a vicious fight. It can be very difficult to break up such a fight inside a cage.
Allow the rabbits to go into their home together on their own. One may go in, the other start to follow, and quickly back off, acknowledging the territory of the other. Gradually, they will agree that they are, truly, a “couple,” having equal rights to their home, and will curl up together in it.
Final Comments
Rabbits are highly individualistic creatures. Please understand that this description covers the way most rabbits behave most of the time, but be aware they may do something totally unexpected. The best advice, should this happen, is, use common sense in dealing with it and try to put it in the context of the principles explained in this article" (All quotes located from http://houserabbitga.com/bonding-guide/ ).
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